Domaine DUJAC

In winemaking there are essentially no rules, leaving aside, of course, injunctions against paths that hew toward sheer folly. There are, though, maxims. For Jeremy Seysses, of Domaine Dujac’s second generation who, together with his brother Alec, leads his family’s winery, there are two key maxims that guide him. First, following a fixed recipe for making wine may be “safe” but the resulting wines will, at best, be mediocre and, perhaps worse, boring. To make great wine, one that kindles excitement and emotion, requires taking risks. Second, winemaking is an accumulation of small decisions, many of them cloaking risks.

Jeremy, Alec, and Jeremy’s wife, Diana Snowden (who is a graduate of the University of California’s Davis winemaking program), follow in the footsteps of Jacques Seysses who founded the Domaine in 1967. Bloodlines are long in Burgundy as many of the most prominent domaines trace their roots within a single family back through three, four, five and often many more generations. Exceptionally, a newcomer may manage to spring onto the scene and, even more rarely, achieve resound ing early acclaim. Jacques Seysses made his domaine one of those unicorn exceptions. His earlier career was in banking which he left having secured an apprenticeship with Gérard Potel, the renowned winemaker of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay. Following that training he purchased the pre-existing vineyards of Domaine Graillet. He penned the name “Dujac” as a shortened “du Jacques”, which, translated, means “from Jacques”.

There are no rules for making compelling, thrilling Burgundy; instead there is a SERIES OF SMALL DECISIONS.

Jacques Seysses’ first vineyards were prestigious Grand Crus, Clos La Roche and Clos Saint Denis¹. These two have been followed by many of the most revered vineyards in Burgundy: Chambertin, Charmes Chambertin, Échezeaux, Bonnes Mares, and Romanée Saint Vivant among the Grand Crus; Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes, Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts, Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts among the Premier Crus. Even more recently the Domaine has added white wines from the Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes and Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières. Together with village level wines the vineyards have expanded from 5 hectares to today’s 17.5.

_{¹For those not steeped in the lore of the region, a brief tutorial on Burgundian vineyard classifications. Over the many centuries that wine has been made here, every speck of vineyard land has been studied, evaluated, ranked and had its verdict delivered to the degree that the boundaries of a highly prized parcel may lie mere feet from another parcel esteemed to be average or perhaps not suitable for wine at all. These judgements have been reduced to a precisely defined system of wine classification. At the bottom of the ladder are wines sourced from general areas in the region (often blends from several areas) that are entitled only to the label “Bourgogne”. Up a rung are wines from designated vineyards all located within one of the communes which would be labeled with the commune name, such as “Morey-Saint-Denis” or “Gevrey-Chambertin”. Higher still are wines sourced from particular vineyards within a commune which have been classified as a “Premier Cru”, a lofty perch. Examples: “Vosne- Romanée Aux Malconsorts” or “ Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes”. Finally at the pinnacle, from one of the vineyards found to be the finest, wines labeled “Grand Cru” such as “Clos de la Roche”.}

One of the SIGNATURES of Dujac is the use of a large percentage of WHOLE CLUSTERS.

There is no set formula for making great Burgundy. No cookbook. Cue maxim number one. That should be an axiom for any fine wine, but it is particularly true for making pinot noir, perhaps the most fickle and maddeningly difficult grape in the world. It is capable of profound ethereal heights or, in a turn of fate, disastrous failure. Jacques made one decision at the outset that established a style for the Domaine: use of a high percentage of whole clusters in the fermentation vats. Most winemakers in Burgundy remove a large percentage, some going further, removing all of the stems before fermentation begins. Various reasons are given for de-stemming. Some claim purity of flavor. Others claim deeper color. Seysses saw it differently. Including the stems brings excitement, spice, even exoticism to the final wine. He placed the Domaine in company with the Domaine de la Romanée Conti in the belief that stems were an essential ingredient to achieve greatness. However, there is no rule on what percentage of stems to include and there is risk in the decision on whether to include stems and the follow-on decisions on the percentage. Those decisions and the risks that they trigger turn on the particulars of the vintage, vineyard, condition of the stems, and more. Small decisions related to each one have produced racy, spicy wines of breed. Attention grabbers from the first whiff wafting from the glass.

Dujac’s vineyards are now all ORGANICALLY farmed.

There is a saying “great wine is made in the vineyard”. Which is, actually, only half true since it ignores the multitude of winemaking decisions that follow the harvest. A better way to phrase it is in the inverse “it is impossible to make great wine if the grapes are inferior”. Domaine Dujac has had the same vineyard manager, Lilian Robin, since 2001. Of course, one would expect that he would know the nuances of each of the Domaine’s parcels. His intimacy goes deeper. Strolling through the Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers vineyard, Lilian pointed to particular old vines, some dating back 80 years, that he favors. For him, all vines are not equal with quality varying vine-to-vine. Knowing the vineyard in this way, vine-by-vine, these particular vines represent the best part of the parcel’s history. Periodically, cuttings are made from these superior select vines which are used to graft onto root stock to be planted elsewhere on the Domaine’s property. Standing in front of one of these favored vines, Lilian recounted how its cuttings were used for replanting in the Grand Cru Clos Saint Denis vineyard. This method for renewing a vine- yard using cuttings from the best vines is termed “sélection massale”. The contrast is stark with the more common approach of simply purchasing vines from a nursery supplier.

The evolution of Dujac’s vineyards has other dimensions. First is the conversion to organic management. Begun in 2001, the conversion to organic farming has grown from the initial 4 hectares to 100% by 2008. A second dimension of transformation is adoption of biodynamic methods. The champion and pioneer of these techniques is Rudolf Steiner. There are several elements of the Steiner biodynamics script which have engendered controversy for their seemingly mythical constructs. Example: burying a hollowed cow horn filled with manure according to a moon phase calendar and exhuming it months later, again at a date dictated by the moon, for use in confecting a fertilizer. Dujac embraces the less fanciful notions which imagine the vineyard as an entire ecosystem influenced by a multitude of factors. Planting trees to create canopies for better tolerance of dry or hot spells and promoting insect diversity with natural plantings between rows are measures which have been adopted.

Dujac’s DEVOTION TO THE DETAILS brings distinction and EXCITEMENT to their wines.

As the vineyard management has evolved since the second generation has taken charge, so has the winemaking. Many of the years when Jacques was making the wine were cool requiring him to add sugar (termed “chaptalization”) in order to reach a desired level of alcohol. Now the adaptation goes the other way, avoiding over ripeness and excessive alcohol levels. Jeremy follows one lesson from his father, who, in turn, followed it from his time working with Gérard Potel. It speaks to adaptation. It is up to the skill of the winemaker each year to understand what nature has given him and let that govern his decisions. Thus, in most years now, he has moved the harvest day earlier to account for warmer growing seasons. He has brought one stylistic change to the cellar. Still hewing to his father’s philosophy of the importance of vinifying with whole clusters, Jeremy has subtly reduced the percentages used. In his view, this enhances the showing, in a more pronounced fashion, of the personality of each vineyard in the final wine. Wine enthusiasts term this “terroir”.

It would be unusual for a family enterprise to have a rigid organization chart clearly dividing responsibilities. For the Seysses family fluidity is the watchword. Although Jeremy focuses heavily on winemaking and Alec gravitates toward the commercial side, both brothers and Diana have important winemaking roles to play. Indeed, all three are omnipresent during the harvest, even aided by their children.

Great Burgundies will always be artisanal handcrafted wines. The Seysses family over the two generations of their winemaking have consistently demonstrated their dedication to all of the details that bring distinction and excitement to their wines.

TASTING Notes

All wines tasted from the bottle as indicated. JSK (Jeffrey S. Kingston); GD (Dr. George Derbalian).

DR. GEORGE DERBALIAN Dr. George Derbalian is the Lettres du Brassus wine expert. Dr. Derbalian is the founder of Atherton Wine Imports, located in northern California. Not only has he become one of the United States’ premier importers of fine wines, but he has acquired a well-deserved reputation as one of the leading and most respected wine connoisseurs and expert tasters in the world. Each year, Dr. Derbalian travels the wine circuits of Europe and the United States, meeting with wine producers, owners of the finest domains, maîtres de chai, and other key figures in the world of wine. Throughout the course of each year, he tastes literally many thousands of current production and vintage wines.

1985 CLOS LA ROCHE. FROM GD CELLAR. TASTED MARCH 2003.
Superb. Powerful. Excellent bouquet. Gorgeous wine. (GD)

1989 CLOS LA ROCHE. FROM JSK CELLAR. TASTED MAY 2024.
Medium color and no trace of brick. Nose explodes from the glass with white pepper and exotic spices. Layers of vanilla and bright focused blackberry. Extraordinary concentration and power yet nearly weightless. Long finish. (JSK)

1989 BONNES MARES. FROM GD CELLAR. TASTED JUNE 2003.
Half bottles. Gorgeous bouquet with roses and spring flowers. Medium body with nice balance. Good length. A superb 1989. (GD)

1990 CLOS LA ROCHE. FROM JSK CELLAR. TASTED IN COMPANY OF OTHER BURGUNDY FANATICS IN 2013 IN NY.
A riveting, stunning, profound wine. That evening alongside other super prestige red Burgundies, it stole the show as wine of the night (WOTN). A wine with everything: an intoxicating spicy perfume, power, finesse, complexity, endless finish. (JSK) This is shining! Super bouquet. Clove and lush fruit. It has it all. 5 stars. (GD)

1999 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN. FROM JSK CELLAR. TASTED APRIL 2024.
Beautiful red fruits and spice in the nose. Bright tight red currants and chocolate on the palate. One senses bursts of the berries. Spice in the finish. (JSK)

2000 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES MONTS LUISANTS. FROM JSK CELLAR. TASTED MAY 2024.
Color deeply honeyed as would be expected from a white nearly 25 years old. Toasted hazelnut with pêche de vigne aromas. Extraordinary weight on the palate. Vibrant and round. Toast and ripe apricots. Long finish of ripe fruit. Time to consume the other bottles. (JSK)

2002 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES GRUENCHERS. FROM GD CELLAR. TASTED JUNE 2005.
Gorgeous bouquet. Pretty. Delicious. Superb! (GD)

2002 CLOS SAINT DENIS. FROM GD CELLAR. TASTED MARCH 2011.
Fabulous, gorgeous bouquet. A big step up from Aux Combottes. (GD)

2006 VOSNE-ROMANÉE AUX MALCONSORTS. TASTED AT THE DOMAINE APRIL 2024.
The Domaine’s first Malconsorts vintage. Fleshy, broad shouldered with a firm backbone. Suave. A touch of strawberry jam laced with mocha. Very pure. (JSK)

2007 CLOS DE LA ROCHE. TASTED AT THE DOMAINE APRIL 2024.
2007 was an overcast summer with an early harvest. No heat spikes. A vintage with pretty aromatic wines. Spicy, racy perfume. Power without weight. Black fruits. (JSK)

2008 CLOS DE LA ROCHE. FROM GD CELLAR. TASTED MAY 2024.
Deep color. Typical racy exotic nose. Tight, focused on the palate. Vigorous. Notes of chocolate and coffee. Tannins remain a touch firm suggesting long life ahead. (JSK)

2009 CLOS SAINT DENIS. TASTED AT THE DOMAINE APRIL 2024.
A warm vintage although somewhat less warm in Morey-Saint-Denis. Hail reduced the leaf canopy. An elegant wine. Sweet red cherry personality. Tannins are round. Well defined. (JSK)

2009 ÉCHEZEAUX. FROM GD CELLAR. TASTED MAY 2024.
Spice in the nose. Red cherries and cinnamon. Velvet soft texture. Round elegance. Lovely. (JSK)

2009 ROMANÉE SAINT VIVANT. TASTED FEBRUARY 2012.
Extra complexity and aristocracy. Finesse with elegant spices of Vosne. Extra length, energy and flavor intensity. (GD)

2014 CLOS SAINT DENIS. TASTED APRIL 2024 AT THE FERME DE LA RUCHOTTE IN BURGUNDY.
A darling wine. Made the day! Impressive how well the 2014s are showing. (GD)

2017 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS. TASTED AT THE DOMAINE APRIL 2024.
2017 was a cool dry summer with no heat waves. Lovely raspberry fruit. Soft on the palate. A touch of round tannins. (JSK)

2017 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES GRUENCHERS. TASTED AT THE AUBERGE DE L’ILL IN ILLHAEUSERN APRIL 2024.
A beautiful refined wine. Lots of Musigny character. Soft on the palate but with real power. Raspberries and hints of chocolate. Stunning. (JSK)

2020 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS BLANC. TASTED APRIL 2024 AT THE FERME DE LA RUCHOTTE IN BURGUNDY.
Very fine indeed. (GD)

2022 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN AUX COMBOTTES. TASTED AT THE DOMAINE APRIL 2024.
A hot dry vintage. Spicy exotic aromas. Defined black cherry fruit. Chocolate. A sacher torte! (JSK)