VILLERET Refreshed

When did Blancpain’s Villeret Collection begin? The question appears straightforward, the answer not so much. The name “Villeret” was appended to Blancpain’s most classic line in 2003 at the same time as the names “Leman” and “Le Brassus” debuted for other collections of that era. However, the design codes, philosophy, indeed the very DNA of what was given the moniker “Villeret” long ­predated the naming of the collections. What today we would recognize as a Blancpain’s Villeret with its double stepped bezel and refined understated style, dates to 1983 with the launch of what has now become the iconic complete calendar moonphase. More than that, this design has established itself as one of the symbols of Blancpain.

That model was no less than groundbreaking, as its debut illuminated the path for Swiss watchmaking not only to survive but to prosper in the face of the quartz crisis that was then decimating the industry. A flood of inexpensive foreign made quartz watches was rendering obsolete mechanical timepieces which could not compete on price. However, when Blancpain debuted its moonphase model, it proved that an industrially produced quartz watch and a finely hand finished complicated time piece have nothing in common. The Blancpain moonphase timepiece that would later bear the name Villeret embodied the human touches of art, romance, fine handcraft, and two centuries of Swiss watchmaking tradition, none of which was found in the mass-produced quartz commodities. What connoisseurs came to see was that one was certainly not a substitute for the other. Blancpain’s bold demonstration of the values of fine mechanical watch handcraft became, thus, the catalyst for the rebirth of traditional watchmaking that continues to flourish today.

The core elements of the style of that original moonphase timepiece, so vital to the survival and rebirth of Swiss watchmaking, have endured at Blancpain for more than the half century that has followed. A slight refresh, done with a light touch fully preserving Villeret’s DNA, occurred in 2010. That same sensibility has guided this new update.

Underscoring the respect and devotion to the timeless and classic spirit of Villeret are the elements of the new models that remain unchanged from their ancestors. Examine the Ref. 6654N. A double stepped bezel, a prominent moon phase display, windows for the day of the week and month displays, the date shown with a dedicated hand all are faithful to Villeret tradition.

What then is new? Start with the signature ­complication: the moon phase. To enhance the presentation of the moon, it is now displayed in a larger opening. The moonphase disk is in ceramic with the moon itself, now a gold applique, given a three-dimensional bombe shape, its surface satin finished with polished facial features.

Subtle changes have been brought to the hands and indexes. The formerly slightly open-worked gold hands are now solid with a fine luminescent insert.

The Roman indexes have been given a crisper more contemporary form with the top surface satin finished, and the flanks polished. The numeral “12” has been replaced by the “JB” symbol. Another refinement is seen on the surface of the dial itself. The classic opalin finish has been given a slightly warmer hue and is now found in both the gold and steel models.

Changes are also found on the movement side. The winding rotor has been open worked to enhance the view of the movement beneath. Its edges feature a fine anglage finish. For the red gold version, the rotor is fashioned in the same material. The steel model features a yellow gold winding rotor.

Finally, eagle-eyed Blancpain connoisseurs will notice understated changes to the case. The signature stepped bezel has been ever so slightly refined. The crown is now larger in diameter. The complete calendar moonphase model’s case has been slimmed in profile with recontoured lugs. Of course, Blancpain’s patented correctors under the lugs, offering fingertip setting of the calendar, remain.